The Travels of Jaimie McPheeters (1959): What We Bring Home

Yesterday, Spain won the World Cup. The trophy was lifted. Confetti filled the air. As the tournament ended, the last wave of supporters headed home while millions of others were already back in dozens of countries, carrying whatever souvenirs they’d collected during a month in North America. Somewhere among them was a Norwegian soccer star with a taxidermied raccoon.

There really isn’t another sporting event like the World Cup. Every four years, for one extraordinary month, national identity becomes the world’s most popular spectator sport. People who spend the rest of their lives arguing about politics, religion, or almost anything else suddenly find themselves united behind the same eleven players wearing the same colors. The tournament doesn’t belong to clubs or leagues. It belongs to countries.

The Olympics come closest, but they’re fundamentally different. The Olympics celebrate breadth, asking us to marvel at hundreds of events across dozens of sports. The World Cup is almost monastic in its focus. Twenty-two players. One ball. One trophy. For a month, a substantial portion of humanity cares about exactly the same thing. (As an aside, this BBC montage of the tournament is fantastic.)

But as much as I love the soccer, that wasn’t what made this tournament unforgettable. It was the travelers.

I was lucky enough to attend several matches myself during this World Cup. The first was Switzerland versus Qatar. If I’m being honest, I didn’t particularly care who won. It didn’t matter. Forty thousand people around me cared enough for all of us.

For two hours, I borrowed their passion. Fans sang songs I’d never heard. Flags I’d rarely seen outside geography textbooks waved in every direction. Every completed pass, every missed opportunity, every referee’s whistle felt monumental because the people around me treated it that way. Their enthusiasm became my enthusiasm.

A week later, Parisa and I landed in Mexico City on the night (coincidentally) Mexico was playing at the Azteca. I’ve been fortunate to visit a lot of cities. I’ve never seen one quite like that.

Every restaurant had its televisions pointed toward the match. Every plaza filled with people hours before kickoff. Cars rolled through intersections with enormous Mexican flags streaming from their windows while complete strangers shouted “¡México!” across traffic and received equally enthusiastic replies. The city wasn’t simply watching soccer. It was participating in it.

A few days later, we joined a taco tour and met a man from South Africa who may become the person I remember most from this entire World Cup. He had flown from Johannesburg to Mexico City for South Africa’s opening match. Then he flew to New York, rented a car, drove to Atlanta for the second game, and eventually made his way to Monterrey for the final group-stage match. Thousands of miles, two countries, and countless hours on airplanes and highways, all to follow one national team.

Naturally, we asked him about his trip. What had been his favorite part of North America? The tacos? Times Square? The mountains? The people? He smiled. “Buc-ee’s.”

We laughed. Not because he was wrong – Buc–ees is undeniably amazing – but because his answer was wonderfully specific. He wasn’t talking about the rows of gas pumps or the oversized beaver mascot. He was talking about the employees shouting, “Fresh brisket on the board!” every time another brisket came out of the smoker. Somehow that joyful little chant had become the story he was most excited to carry home to Johannesburg.

The more I thought about it, the more perfect his answer seemed. Throughout the tournament I kept seeing visitors fall in love with things most of us stopped noticing years ago. A Brazilian couldn’t believe the size of American pickup trucks. A German was delighted by free refills. An English supporter became inexplicably obsessed with ranch dressing. Another visitor wondered why every drink contained enough ice to preserve a woolly mammoth.

None of them were discovering hidden treasures. They were discovering ordinary North America. That’s what travel does. It edits our stories.

Nobody comes home talking about baggage claim or the hotel room. We remember the ordinary things that felt extraordinary because they were unfamiliar: the bartender who insisted we try the local beer, the tiny bakery we found after a wrong turn, the Tokyo 7-Eleven selling fresh meals, or the Nordic hotel that solved blanket stealing with two separate duvets.

None of those moments would appear in a travel brochure, yet they are often the ones that stay with us. Travel sharpens our attention. It makes us notice the small customs, habits, and encounters that locals stopped seeing long ago. Sometimes it takes going halfway around the world to discover something new. Sometimes it takes a visitor to help us see what was already there.

That realization brought me back to Robert Lewis Taylor’s The Travels of Jaimie McPheeters, the Pulitzer Prize winner for Fiction in 1959. Like every great travel story, the novel begins with a destination. Twelve-year-old Jaimie McPheeters and his physician father, Sardius, leave Missouri in 1849, joining thousands of Americans heading west after news of gold in California. Like nearly everyone around them, they believe California promises reinvention. Wealth. Adventure. A chance to begin again.

The farther west they travel, however, the less important California becomes. Instead, Taylor fills the trail with an astonishing parade of humanity: gamblers, prospectors, swindlers, preachers, doctors, merchants, soldiers, entertainers, pioneers, widows, dreamers, and drifters. Some become companions for hundreds of pages. Others disappear almost as quickly as they arrive, continuing down the trail and out of the novel forever. At first, the structure feels almost chaotic. Taylor keeps introducing fascinating people just as you’re settling into the last group. Characters drift into Jaimie’s life, dominate a few chapters, and then quietly move on. If you’re a reader accustomed to tightly engineered plots, you may wonder whether the novel is ever going to settle down.

Eventually, though, you realize Taylor isn’t losing control of the novel. He’s recreating what travel actually feels like. When we remember a trip, the itinerary fades long before the people do.

That’s Jaimie’s gift. He’s curious in the way children often are before adulthood convinces us we should already know everything worth knowing. He asks questions. He listens. He notices details everyone else overlooks. His greatest talent isn’t surviving the frontier. It’s paying attention. By the time he finally reaches California, the Gold Rush itself almost feels incidental. The real treasure had been traveling beside him all along.

In some ways, this World Cup felt like a twenty-first-century version of Jaimie McPheeters’ journey. In 1849, Americans crossed a continent searching for opportunity. In 2026, the world crossed an ocean to visit us. The direction changed, but the lesson didn’t. The journey was never really about the destination. It was about the people encountered along the way.

Months before the tournament began, newspapers devoted endless coverage to whether North America was ready to host the World Cup. Would the airports work? Would transportation collapse? Would there be enough hotel rooms? Would security hold?

They were fair questions. By the end of the tournament, though, I found myself asking a different one: Were we good hosts? I think so. Not because every train ran on time or traffic wasn’t terrible. Visitors rarely remember logistics. They remember how a place made them feel. They’ll remember the strangers who made an unfamiliar country feel unexpectedly familiar.

One of my favorite parts of this World Cup was watching patriotism quietly give way to hospitality. Flags stopped feeling like political statements and became invitations to conversation. Adults who normally avoid eye contact found themselves talking in airport terminals, train stations, breweries, food halls, and stadium concourses. The questions were almost always the same: Where are you from? How long are you here? Where are you headed next? What shouldn’t I miss? For one month, strangers became neighbors. I suspect that’s the souvenir many visitors carried home.

Like many Pulitzer winners from the middle of the twentieth century, The Travels of Jaimie McPheeters won’t be for everyone. Readers looking for a tightly plotted adventure may find its pace frustrating. Taylor is perfectly willing to wander away from the central narrative because another interesting person happens to cross Jaimie’s path. Entire episodes exist simply to let us spend time with someone we’d never have invented ourselves.

Ironically, that’s exactly what makes the novel memorable. Taylor understands something every experienced traveler eventually learns: the detours aren’t interruptions. They’re the destination.

I’ve already forgotten who scored Switzerland’s goal against Qatar, and before long I’ll probably have to look up parts of the knockout bracket as well. That’s what happens with sports. Results blur together until only the champion remains. The people don’t.

I’ll remember the South African who somehow found his favorite memory of North America in a Buc-ee’s brisket chant. I’ll remember Erling Haaland deciding that the souvenir he couldn’t leave behind was a taxidermied raccoon from a western store in Dallas. On the surface, they couldn’t have been more different. And yet they were really the same story.

Like Jaimie McPheeters, they discovered that travel isn’t measured by the miles you cover or the landmarks you visit. It’s measured by the unexpected moments you never could have planned. Travel has never been about collecting places. It’s about collecting stories.

Millions of visitors returned home with jerseys, scarves, photographs, and souvenirs. I suspect the things they’ll treasure most, though, are the stories they never expected to collect.

So did I.

Mine just never left North America.

#62 – Sometimes Things Work and Sometimes They Don’t: My Summer Vacation vs. “A Fable” by William Faulkner (1955)

Def: Serendipity: 1. an aptitude for making desirable discoveries by accident; 2. the occurrence and development of events by chance in a happy or beneficial way. See also: you can’t make this sh*t up.

Things can happen by accident or chance. Incredible things. Things that cannot be manufactured or created by will. I know this to be true, but it’s astounding that, at my age, I’m still surprised that these things happen and that they often work out OK. Or at least, much better than they should have. Sometimes by “work out” I mean “I didn’t die” (see, e.g., when I, at age 17, was left in Tijuana with $5 and no ride and decided my best option was to hitchhike to San Diego). But most of the time it is less about avoiding a tragic outcome, and more about stumbling across amazing moments that I would (and should) have never expected to happen. Serendipity. And that’s exactly what happened when we went to Europe this summer.

To set the stage, it is important to know that we give our older kids a lot of say in where we vacation. Possibly too much. Like when the kids chose…wait for it….Pennsylvania! for spring break, we were skeptical, but it worked out. Between Hershey Park, Gettysburg, and the cheesesteaks, we had a great time. One year wiser, this year we limited the options for our summer destination to Europe, and solicited suggestions.

Where did we end up? Start with my daughter Lily, who just turned 12 and whose favorite book in the whole wide world is The Fault in Our Stars, which, if you haven’t read it, really is the best (non-Pulitzer prize winning) book in the whole wide world. And in TFIOS (tweens love acronyms), a pivotal story arch has the two cancer-stricken teenage protagonists visit Amsterdam. Ergo, we have Lily’s choice and stop #1, and promptly purchased four tickets to Amsterdam. My son Sam is 13 and a legitimate World War II history buff. And he knows his stuff. We once met a WWII vet at a museum and Sam correctly answered every obscure question the guy asked about the war. So, we had our next stop, and promptly purchased four train tickets to Berlin. (As an aside, Sam’s other top travel ideas at the moment are (a) Iceland to see the Aurora Borealis and (b) Burning Man. Places Sam Takes Me could be my new blog.)

On the plane to Amsterdam I opened up Donna Tartt’s The Goldfinch, winner of the 2014 Pulitzer Prize, and read the first sentence: “While I was still in Amsterdam, I dreamed about my mother for the first time in years.” While not itself serendipitous, it was certainly eerily coincidental, and foreshadowed the serendipity to follow. Because unless you live under a rock or really really really hate sports, then you have probably already figured out that our European adventure was about to collide with the World Cup.

I am by no means a die-hard soccer fan but I love the World Cup because the World Cup does one thing better than any other event that human beings organize –it focuses the attention of the world on one place at one moment. From the moment Brazil beat Croatia in the first match, a substantial portion of the living population of the Earth had its feelings altered simultaneously by the actions of 22 men chasing a ball around a field in Brazil. Only the Olympics brings people together like this, and hey, all due respect to the Olympics, but is it ever not the same thing.

And this World Cup pretty much had everything on the field and off. It started with an insane group stage full of upsets and ended with the coronation of Germany and the potential start of a dynasty. And along the way it had Robin van Persie’s header against Spain; Guillermo Ochoa blanking Brazil; Costa Rica leaving a trail of established European powers in its wake; James Rodrigues and the Giant Bug; the Netherlands’ equalizer against Mexico in the 88th minute; Tim Howard’s 16 saves and the series of nervous breakdowns that was US-Belgium; and Germany scoring four goals in six minutes against the most celebrated nation in soccer history, a team that hadn’t lost a competitive match on home soil since 1975. But I digress.

What will be really memorable about this year’s Cup, at least for me, is that it unfolded serendipitously to overlap perfectly with our kids very non-soccer focused vacation plans.

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We landed in Amsterdam with enough time to get our bearings, check in to our hotel, purchase bright orange Robben, van Persie and Sneijder jerseys and find ourselves a spot in a bar near the Vondelpark to watch the Netherlands-Argentina match. The teams played to a stalemate and, truth be told, it wasn’t even an exciting stalemate. Argentina won in a shoot out, so we bid adieu to the Dutch who left us with so many lasting memories from this World Cup like…, um, well… Arjen Robben falling down.

But we weren’t that upset. Our love of the Dutch was fleeting because, serendipitously, Germany let loose a historic and unanticipated 7-1 drubbing on Brazil in the other semi-final and, by chance, our itinerary had us landing in Berlin the day of the finals. So once again, we had just enough time to get our bearings, buy some appropriately allegiant clothing (this time the last of the German hats and flags in the stores), and make our way to the Brandenburg gate to watch the World Cup finals on the big screens with 100,000 of our closest German friends who were armed with a seemingly unending supply of beer and sausage.

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We all know how the story ends. Germany were crowned world champions for the fourth time thanks to a stunning extra-time winner from super sub Mario Gotze in the 113th minute. We hugged our drunk German brethren. We loudly sang German soccer songs without knowing a single word other than “Deutchland, Deutchland.” We drank giant beers. And we ruined our kids. Because now they want to know where we will celebrate the World Cup championship four years from now and I have to tell them that you can’t re-create what happened because it happened entirely by chance. It was serendipity. It was magical. And sometimes things just work out because working out feels awesome.

My 200,000 closest German friends as seen from the Ferris Wheel.
My 100,000 closest German friends as seen from the Ferris Wheel.

But sometimes it doesn’t, which brings me to William Faulkner’s A Fable. The plot itself is actually pretty straightforward: a French battalion in WWI lay down their arms and refuse to fight at the behest of a Christ-like corporal. Chaos ensues as the military powers-that-be realize that if all the soldiers realize peace is as simple as everybody agreeing to stop fighting, then what’s the point of being a power-that-be. The story chronicles the elaborate efforts of the French, British and American powers-that-be to investigate and cover up this absurdity, and to punish those responsible for daring to stop a war.

Faulkner, without a doubt, is a literary great and one of only two authors with two novels on the Pulitzer list. And evidence of his genius is abundant but the problem is it’s hidden amidst pages and pages of rambling paragraphs and speeches and descriptions that are circular and repetitive and overly-flowery to the point of being masturbatory. Moreover, as with James Cozzens’ Guard of Honor, most of the characters are seldom referred to by name, and there is a liberal use of pronouns with ambiguous antecedents, so it’s easy to lose track of who’s who and what they’re doing at any given moment. I love a dense and rambling novel as much as the next guy, but when you combine that with repetitive and opaque writing, the results are a far more challenging read than seems necessary.

It was painstaking to finish this one, but I was hoping that there would be that Faulkner pay-off where you just love the end of the book, where he brings everything together in a way that blows your mind. I was hoping it would all work out in the end. But sometimes it doesn’t. Faulkner was a brilliant writer, but by the time he wrote this, his fifteenth novel, he was less in need of talent than of an editor. This was not magical, and certainly not something that happened by chance. He manufactured this book, belaboring the language, writing intentionally and deliberately, and it did not work out OK. Except maybe for the whole winning the Pulitzer thing. Which, although good for him, didn’t help him rank any higher than last on my list with this novel.

P.S. If I was in need of any more serendipity on this trip I found it at the very last stop. After Berlin we headed to Prague and by chance, on our way home, in the Prague airport, there was a piano with a sign inviting people to play. And by chance, we had a few minutes to spare, and Lily embraced the opportunity, playing “Colors of the Wind” from the movie Pocahontas.

We weren’t home more than a week when, by chance, the following video appeared in my Facebook feed.

It turns out that the pianos have been placed around the city streets, public spaces and train stations as part of an unusual art project aimed at getting people together away from their typical routine. By chance the one piano that we came across was the exact same piano in the viral video. Serendipity? The occurrence and development of events by chance in a happy or beneficial way? Absolutely. It was one last magical moment that we never could have imagined. At least until the next one.