The Travels of Jaimie McPheeters (1959): What We Bring Home

Yesterday, Spain won the World Cup. The trophy was lifted. Confetti filled the air. As the tournament ended, the last wave of supporters headed home while millions of others were already back in dozens of countries, carrying whatever souvenirs they’d collected during a month in North America. Somewhere among them was a Norwegian soccer star with a taxidermied raccoon.

There really isn’t another sporting event like the World Cup. Every four years, for one extraordinary month, national identity becomes the world’s most popular spectator sport. People who spend the rest of their lives arguing about politics, religion, or almost anything else suddenly find themselves united behind the same eleven players wearing the same colors. The tournament doesn’t belong to clubs or leagues. It belongs to countries.

The Olympics come closest, but they’re fundamentally different. The Olympics celebrate breadth, asking us to marvel at hundreds of events across dozens of sports. The World Cup is almost monastic in its focus. Twenty-two players. One ball. One trophy. For a month, a substantial portion of humanity cares about exactly the same thing. (As an aside, this BBC montage of the tournament is fantastic.)

But as much as I love the soccer, that wasn’t what made this tournament unforgettable. It was the travelers.

I was lucky enough to attend several matches myself during this World Cup. The first was Switzerland versus Qatar. If I’m being honest, I didn’t particularly care who won. It didn’t matter. Forty thousand people around me cared enough for all of us.

For two hours, I borrowed their passion. Fans sang songs I’d never heard. Flags I’d rarely seen outside geography textbooks waved in every direction. Every completed pass, every missed opportunity, every referee’s whistle felt monumental because the people around me treated it that way. Their enthusiasm became my enthusiasm.

A week later, Parisa and I landed in Mexico City on the night (coincidentally) Mexico was playing at the Azteca. I’ve been fortunate to visit a lot of cities. I’ve never seen one quite like that.

Every restaurant had its televisions pointed toward the match. Every plaza filled with people hours before kickoff. Cars rolled through intersections with enormous Mexican flags streaming from their windows while complete strangers shouted “¡México!” across traffic and received equally enthusiastic replies. The city wasn’t simply watching soccer. It was participating in it.

A few days later, we joined a taco tour and met a man from South Africa who may become the person I remember most from this entire World Cup. He had flown from Johannesburg to Mexico City for South Africa’s opening match. Then he flew to New York, rented a car, drove to Atlanta for the second game, and eventually made his way to Monterrey for the final group-stage match. Thousands of miles, two countries, and countless hours on airplanes and highways, all to follow one national team.

Naturally, we asked him about his trip. What had been his favorite part of North America? The tacos? Times Square? The mountains? The people? He smiled. “Buc-ee’s.”

We laughed. Not because he was wrong – Buc–ees is undeniably amazing – but because his answer was wonderfully specific. He wasn’t talking about the rows of gas pumps or the oversized beaver mascot. He was talking about the employees shouting, “Fresh brisket on the board!” every time another brisket came out of the smoker. Somehow that joyful little chant had become the story he was most excited to carry home to Johannesburg.

The more I thought about it, the more perfect his answer seemed. Throughout the tournament I kept seeing visitors fall in love with things most of us stopped noticing years ago. A Brazilian couldn’t believe the size of American pickup trucks. A German was delighted by free refills. An English supporter became inexplicably obsessed with ranch dressing. Another visitor wondered why every drink contained enough ice to preserve a woolly mammoth.

None of them were discovering hidden treasures. They were discovering ordinary North America. That’s what travel does. It edits our stories.

Nobody comes home talking about baggage claim or the hotel room. We remember the ordinary things that felt extraordinary because they were unfamiliar: the bartender who insisted we try the local beer, the tiny bakery we found after a wrong turn, the Tokyo 7-Eleven selling fresh meals, or the Nordic hotel that solved blanket stealing with two separate duvets.

None of those moments would appear in a travel brochure, yet they are often the ones that stay with us. Travel sharpens our attention. It makes us notice the small customs, habits, and encounters that locals stopped seeing long ago. Sometimes it takes going halfway around the world to discover something new. Sometimes it takes a visitor to help us see what was already there.

That realization brought me back to Robert Lewis Taylor’s The Travels of Jaimie McPheeters, the Pulitzer Prize winner for Fiction in 1959. Like every great travel story, the novel begins with a destination. Twelve-year-old Jaimie McPheeters and his physician father, Sardius, leave Missouri in 1849, joining thousands of Americans heading west after news of gold in California. Like nearly everyone around them, they believe California promises reinvention. Wealth. Adventure. A chance to begin again.

The farther west they travel, however, the less important California becomes. Instead, Taylor fills the trail with an astonishing parade of humanity: gamblers, prospectors, swindlers, preachers, doctors, merchants, soldiers, entertainers, pioneers, widows, dreamers, and drifters. Some become companions for hundreds of pages. Others disappear almost as quickly as they arrive, continuing down the trail and out of the novel forever. At first, the structure feels almost chaotic. Taylor keeps introducing fascinating people just as you’re settling into the last group. Characters drift into Jaimie’s life, dominate a few chapters, and then quietly move on. If you’re a reader accustomed to tightly engineered plots, you may wonder whether the novel is ever going to settle down.

Eventually, though, you realize Taylor isn’t losing control of the novel. He’s recreating what travel actually feels like. When we remember a trip, the itinerary fades long before the people do.

That’s Jaimie’s gift. He’s curious in the way children often are before adulthood convinces us we should already know everything worth knowing. He asks questions. He listens. He notices details everyone else overlooks. His greatest talent isn’t surviving the frontier. It’s paying attention. By the time he finally reaches California, the Gold Rush itself almost feels incidental. The real treasure had been traveling beside him all along.

In some ways, this World Cup felt like a twenty-first-century version of Jaimie McPheeters’ journey. In 1849, Americans crossed a continent searching for opportunity. In 2026, the world crossed an ocean to visit us. The direction changed, but the lesson didn’t. The journey was never really about the destination. It was about the people encountered along the way.

Months before the tournament began, newspapers devoted endless coverage to whether North America was ready to host the World Cup. Would the airports work? Would transportation collapse? Would there be enough hotel rooms? Would security hold?

They were fair questions. By the end of the tournament, though, I found myself asking a different one: Were we good hosts? I think so. Not because every train ran on time or traffic wasn’t terrible. Visitors rarely remember logistics. They remember how a place made them feel. They’ll remember the strangers who made an unfamiliar country feel unexpectedly familiar.

One of my favorite parts of this World Cup was watching patriotism quietly give way to hospitality. Flags stopped feeling like political statements and became invitations to conversation. Adults who normally avoid eye contact found themselves talking in airport terminals, train stations, breweries, food halls, and stadium concourses. The questions were almost always the same: Where are you from? How long are you here? Where are you headed next? What shouldn’t I miss? For one month, strangers became neighbors. I suspect that’s the souvenir many visitors carried home.

Like many Pulitzer winners from the middle of the twentieth century, The Travels of Jaimie McPheeters won’t be for everyone. Readers looking for a tightly plotted adventure may find its pace frustrating. Taylor is perfectly willing to wander away from the central narrative because another interesting person happens to cross Jaimie’s path. Entire episodes exist simply to let us spend time with someone we’d never have invented ourselves.

Ironically, that’s exactly what makes the novel memorable. Taylor understands something every experienced traveler eventually learns: the detours aren’t interruptions. They’re the destination.

I’ve already forgotten who scored Switzerland’s goal against Qatar, and before long I’ll probably have to look up parts of the knockout bracket as well. That’s what happens with sports. Results blur together until only the champion remains. The people don’t.

I’ll remember the South African who somehow found his favorite memory of North America in a Buc-ee’s brisket chant. I’ll remember Erling Haaland deciding that the souvenir he couldn’t leave behind was a taxidermied raccoon from a western store in Dallas. On the surface, they couldn’t have been more different. And yet they were really the same story.

Like Jaimie McPheeters, they discovered that travel isn’t measured by the miles you cover or the landmarks you visit. It’s measured by the unexpected moments you never could have planned. Travel has never been about collecting places. It’s about collecting stories.

Millions of visitors returned home with jerseys, scarves, photographs, and souvenirs. I suspect the things they’ll treasure most, though, are the stories they never expected to collect.

So did I.

Mine just never left North America.

The Edge of Sadness (1962): The Long Afterlife of Kindness

As graduation season comes to a close, I’ll admit I have a soft spot for commencement speeches. There is something charming about the whole enterprise. Every spring, universities invite an accomplished person to stand in front of thousands of young people and attempt the impossible task of distilling a lifetime of wisdom into twenty minutes.

I’ll also admit that I probably won’t miss this year’s crop of speeches that were less inspiring than usual. Instead of memorable advice, many ceremonies generated news because students booed speakers who dared mention artificial intelligence. These might have made for good headlines, but I miss the speeches that aimed a little higher.

I miss Steve Jobs telling Stanford graduates that “you can’t connect the dots looking forward; you can only connect them looking backwards.” I miss Matthew McConaughey advising students that happiness is not the same thing as joy, and that chasing the former often gets in the way of finding the latter. And I miss Jerry Seinfeld, who’s speech at Duke I happened to see in person, giving more lighthearted guidance: “Do not lose your sense of humor. Not enough of life makes sense for you to survive without it.” Whether you agreed with them or not, those speeches were trying to answer the biggest questions: How should we live? What matters? What will we regret?

One of my favorites came from author George Saunders at Syracuse University in 2013. Saunders began with a familiar commencement premise: an older person reflecting on a life filled with mistakes. He talked about embarrassing moments, bad jobs, and various youthful misadventures. Then he surprised everyone. The thing he regretted most wasn’t a career decision, a financial mistake, or some missed opportunity.

It was a girl.

When Saunders was in seventh grade, a shy new student arrived at his school. She was awkward, frequently teased, and painfully lonely. Saunders wasn’t cruel to her. He never joined in the bullying. Occasionally, he even defended her. But he didn’t do enough. Years later, what haunted him wasn’t anything he had done. It was what he hadn’t done.

“What I regret most in my life,” he told the graduates, “are failures of kindness.”

Not acts of cruelty. Failures of kindness. The distinction is important. Most of us can think of moments when we weren’t our best selves. Saunders was talking about something more subtle. He was talking about those times when another person was suffering right in front of us and we responded, in his words, “sensibly. Reservedly. Mildly.” We saw the need and chose not to fully engage.

Then Saunders asked a question that has stuck with me ever since I first heard this speech: “What’s our problem? Why aren’t we kinder?”

It’s a question that feels especially relevant today. We live in a culture obsessed with achievement. We tell graduates to dream big, work hard, change the world, build companies, make money, find success.  To be clear, I’m not against any of those things and Saunders wasn’t either. His point was simply that, when we look back on our lives, our deepest regrets may not be about ambition at all.

They may be about people.

Maybe we can / Find a place to feel good / And we can treat people with kindness 

– Harry Styles, “Treat People with Kindness”

Which brings me to The Edge of Sadness, Edwin O’Connor’s Pulitzer Prize-winning novel from 1962. At first glance, it seems like an odd companion to a graduation speech. Commencement addresses are usually delivered to people standing at the beginning of their adult lives, full of ambition and possibility. The Edge of Sadness is about people who have already lived most of theirs.

O’Connor’s novel follows Father Hugh Kennedy, a middle-aged Catholic priest returning to his old Boston parish after years away. Once considered a rising star in the Church, Kennedy has spent time recovering from alcoholism and carries more than his share of disappointments, doubts, and regrets. If graduation speeches ask, “What kind of life should I build?” The Edge of Sadness asks a different question: “What happens when the life you built doesn’t quite turn out the way you imagined?”

Back in Boston, Kennedy reconnects with the Carmody family, wealthy Irish Catholics he has known for years. On the surface, they seem successful and enviable. But beneath that polished exterior are broken relationships, loneliness, addiction, resentment, and grief. As Kennedy becomes entangled in their lives, he finds himself serving less as a traditional priest and more as a witness to the quiet suffering that people carry behind closed doors.

What struck me most about the book was how ordinary the sources of suffering are. Nobody sets out to hurt anyone. Instead, the damage comes from smaller failures. People withdraw when they should engage. They protect themselves when they should be vulnerable. They hold back words that should be spoken. They choose pride over understanding. Again and again, people fail to fully show up for one another.

Which brings us back to George Saunders. When Saunders talks about his regret over the lonely girl in seventh grade, he is careful to point out that he wasn’t mean to her. His regret is that he wasn’t kinder.

That same idea runs throughout The Edge of Sadness. The characters aren’t suffering because they were surrounded by evil people. They are suffering because they were surrounded by ordinary people. People who were busy, distracted, frightened, proud, wounded, ambitious, or uncertain. In other words, people very much like the rest of us. While Saunders asks his audience, “What’s our problem? Why aren’t we kinder?”, O’Connor spends an entire novel exploring the consequences of that question.

One of the most hopeful aspects of both the speech and the novel is that neither views kindness as some grand heroic act. Saunders isn’t urging graduates to solve world hunger. Father Kennedy isn’t performing miracles. Both are talking about something smaller and, therefore, more difficult: paying attention to the people directly in front of us. Noticing loneliness. Extending grace. Choosing compassion over judgment. Making the extra phone call. Asking the follow-up question. Staying in the conversation a little longer.

You’ve got to try a little kindness / Yes, show a little kindness / Just shine your light for everyone to see

– Glen Campbell, “Try a Little Kindness”

As I was thinking about Saunders’s speech, I found myself returning to a story I told a few months ago in my post about The Reivers and a Super 8 movie called The Meat Eater that I had made when I was twelve years old with two friends, Jamie and Dave. The movie itself was ridiculous. Dave played a serial killer. Jamie played a detective. I played the victim. Repeatedly. There was ketchup, hamburger meat, and an alarming lack of adult supervision. But the story ended up being about something else.

I also mentioned that after my mother died between seventh and eighth grade, Jamie was unusually kind to me. Nothing dramatic. No grand gesture. He simply spent time with me during a period when I needed friends more than I probably understood. Decades later, I still remember it. When Jamie and I reconnected last year and I mentioned it to him, he seemed genuinely surprised. He barely remembered it happening.

A few months later, on a whim, I tracked down Dave. The last time I had seen him was when we were teenagers. After freshman year of high school, he and his mother moved to San Diego, and like so many friendships in the pre-internet era, ours simply disappeared. Today, if someone moves away, you still see photos of their vacations, their kids, and their lunch choices. Back then, when someone left, they were simply gone. You had no idea what happened to them. They just vanished into the static.

Somehow, through a remarkably lucky Google search, I discovered that Dave lived less than a mile from me. Last week, we met for dinner and spent the evening laughing about The Meat Eater, filling in gaps in each other’s memories, and marveling at the strange paths our lives had taken.

And, echoing the conversation I had with Jamie, during our dinner, Dave told me something I had completely forgotten. Toward the end of junior high, his parents divorced and this had been much harder on him than I ever knew. He told me that one of the things that helped him through that difficult period was our group of friends.

“We had so much fun,” he said.

He said that giving up that friend group was the hardest thing about the move to San Diego. Then he told me something even more surprising. After moving away, he continued having dreams about us well into his thirties. I was stunned.

For Dave, our little group of friends wasn’t just a collection of kids riding bikes, making bad horror films and wasting summer afternoons. It was a refuge during one of the most difficult periods of his young life. The memories stayed with him for decades.

I had no memory of any of that. Just as Jamie didn’t remember being kind to me, I didn’t remember being there for Dave. And that’s the part of George Saunders’s speech that feels truer to me every year.

Kindness don’t ask for much / But an open mind / Kindness can cure a broken heart / Honey, are you feelin’ kind?”

– Ryan Adams, “Kindness”

When Saunders talks about kindness, he’s not describing grand acts of heroism. He’s talking about the small opportunities that present themselves in ordinary life. The lonely kid sitting by herself. The friend whose mother has died. The classmate whose family is falling apart. The person standing quietly at the edge of the group. Most of the time we don’t know which moments matter.

In my conversation with Jamie, I learned that afternoons spent playing with my dad’s early home computer helped spark an interest that eventually led him into the tech industry. In my conversation with Dave, I learned that friendships I had largely forgotten became some of the most cherished memories of his childhood. And in both cases, the people involved remembered those moments far more clearly than I did. Which is perhaps the most beautiful thing about kindness. The effects can last far longer than our memory of giving it.

George Saunders told a group of graduates that his greatest regrets were failures of kindness. More than a decade later, I think the inverse may be true as well. Some of the most meaningful things we ever do may be acts of kindness so small that we don’t even remember them.

The world spends a lot of time telling graduates to think about their future. Their career. Their success. Their ambitions. That’s understandable. But George Saunders and Edwin O’Connor remind us that when we eventually look back on our lives, what we remember most vividly may not be our accomplishments at all.

It may be the people. The friend who showed up. The person who made us feel less alone. The afternoon that seemed ordinary at the time. The kindness that neither person realized would matter for the next forty years.

You may be creating one of their favorite memories without even realizing it.